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By Molly Snyder Senior Writer Photography: Royal Brevvaxling E-mail columnist | Columnist bio More accessories by Molly Snyder
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EAU CLAIRE – Best Milwaukeeans anticipate of Eau Claire as a academy town, a burghal with a name agnate to a cream-filled donut or, in the able decade, the home of Justin Vernon from Bon Iver and his accepted indie music festival, Eaux Claires.
All of this is accurate, but during a contempo four-day break – which was our aboriginal time in Eau Claire – we affable abysmal and able both the arresting renaissance and the abundantly preserved aspects of a burghal that afresh was compared to a mini-version of Austin and Portland.
“Fifteen years ago, Burghal Eau Claire had bars, banks and churches,” says Josh Prock, constant citizen and co-owner of The Mousetrap, a tavern, restaurant and alive music venue. “Everything larboard Burghal aback the malls opened, but now there’s activity actuality and it’s the abode to be again.”
Located 245 afar northwest of Brew City, Eau Claire – nicknamed “Sawdust City” because of its logging history – is an attainable and breathtaking four-hour drive abroad (I-94 W to US-53). It took us a little best because we accumulating our 1980 Volkswagon bus, which is happiest aback active 60 mph or less.
Ideally, if activity for the weekend, Milwaukeeans will appetite to leave on a Friday to ensure a solid appointment to Eau Claire. As we discovered, there is a lot to do on both acreage and water.
The burghal has about 67,000 association – which does not accommodate the University of Wisconsin-Eau Claire apprentice citizenry – and is amid at the assemblage of the Eau Claire and Chippewa Rivers. Historically, it was a bourgeois boondocks – the accepted abundant abode to abound up – but in contempo years it has admiring countless millennial-aged artists and crafts people, able aliment and alcohol enthusiasts, musicians and business visionaries.
Zach Halmstad, a constant citizen of Eau Claire who co-founded a software aggregation alleged JAMF, is the active force abaft abundant new developments in the Burghal area. He is the buyer of the Lismore Auberge and is currently spearheading the $51 actor Pablo Center at the Assemblage that will attainable in September.
“We convenance ‘coopetition.’ We’re not aggravating to attempt with added business owners, we’re aloof aggravating to get added bodies to Eau Claire. It’s about collectively architecture up the market. This is my hometown and I appetite to see anybody actuality succeed,” says Halmstad. “Every one of our projects starts with the question, ‘Will this access the affection of activity for Eau Claire association and visitors?'”
And although the burghal has undergone cogent burghal renewal, attributes is still actual abundant at the affection of the Eau Claire experience. The breadth is arresting with lots of trees, as able-bodied as waterways and trails that accomplish hiking, biking and kayaking acutely attainable in the summer and autumn months.
Eau Claire additionally embraces bounded and accessible art of all kinds. Abundant murals accept brushed assimilate the scene, including the bright and massive “Cascade” by Molly Z., as able-bodied as a mural of the awning of Bon Iver’s album, “22, A Million.”
Downtown Eau Claire is additionally briefly home to 53 arbitrary statues carefully placed throughout the area, as allotment of the “Eau Claire Carve Tour.” There’s a tasteful abstruse in advanced of the Lismore Auberge and a kangaroo with a babyish roo in her accessory in advanced of the Children’s Museum. There’s additionally this albatross who we grew absolutely addicted of.
Downtown Eau Claire is acutely walkable, abnormally in the warmer seasons, and speakers added to artery lamps that breeze with music accomplish applique about the boondocks alike added enjoyable.
“Eau Claire is breathtaking and has alarming confined and restaurants, but it’s additionally acutely affordable,” says Sara Prock, co-owner of the Mousetrap. “And the bodies actuality are absolutely nice.”
Milwaukeeans will absolutely acknowledge the affordability of Eau Claire – we begin aliment and alcohol items to be a few dollars beneath than at home – as able-bodied as the alluring and alarming actuality of the people.
By the end of our four-day stay, we can candidly say we larboard accepting fabricated a few friends.
Like Milwaukeeans, Eau Claire association (Eau Claire-ians?) embrace summer with a affection that can abandoned be able afterwards a continued winter. Bodies are out and about – accessing the old stuff, the new actuality – and animated about it. “Summer actuality comes in like a ample hippie chick, active on chlorophyll and casting fistfuls of collywobbles to the sun,” reads a adduce corrective on the bank at the Oxbow Hotel.
“Eau Claire may be a four-hour adventure from Milwaukee but it’s account every mile for the bona fide indie acquaintance here,” says Mack John, accessible relations administrator for Appointment Eau Claire. “The music and arts ability is organic, the aliment and alcohol are art forms unto themselves, the backdrop is out of this apple and the association is inclusive, caring and absolute all formed into one.”
They additionally comedy an absorbing bold of Kubb, but we’ll get to that later.
There are two hotels – both afresh adapted and operated by adolescent association / entrepreneurs – in Burghal Eau Claire. We backward at the uber-hip Oxbow Hotel, and the aesthetic and hardly added flush The Lismore is aloof a few blocks away.
When we pulled up to the Oxbow, it was cloudburst rain and I ran into the auberge to analysis in. We didn’t apperceive it at the time, but our aboriginal alternation with anyone in Eau Claire – the babysitter at the Oxbow – adumbrated the blow of our stay.
“Does the auberge accept an awning I can borrow?” I asked the adolescent woman at the advanced desk.
“Please,” she said. “Borrow mine.”
The Oxbow, sometimes referred to as “the Bon Iver hotel” (because Justin Vernon is one of the owners), is a anxious and aesthetic bazaar auberge with a rustic and arbitrary bar and restaurant alleged The Lakely that has alive applesauce music and an alfresco patio with blaze pits. The apartment featured – absolutely possibly – the best adequate bed we’ve anytime able in a hotel, a absolute cooling arrangement (it was in the 90s during our break so this was acutely appreciated), city-meets-nature adornment including a hand-painted bank mural of an abstruse abatement map, bounded art on the walls and an acutely apple-pie bathroom. (Our abandoned complaint afterwards our three-night break was there’s not a ledge in the shower. Where’s a babe to set her battery beer? You charge “Leinie Ledges,” Eau Claire!)
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Our admired aspect of the auberge was that anniversary Oxbow allowance has a turntable and guests can analysis out three annal at a time from the lending library in the lobby. Thus, we fell comatose every night to the crackly sounds of Townes Van Zandt, Tom Waits, R.E.M. and Eau Claire native, Phil Cook.
Other adorable capacity of the Oxbow included a coffee columnist delivered to the aperture every morning and locally sourced in-room candy including Indulgence chocolates from Milwaukee.
Although we did not break at The Lismore, we explored it a bit afterwards banquet at the hotel’s restaurant, The Informalist, and affair on the rooftop bar, Dive. (See “where we ate” and “where we drank” for added on these chichi candied spots.)
The Lismore is a modern, automated auberge with 112 bedfellow rooms. The architecture was originally a Ramada Inn, which fell into busted and closed, abrogation Burghal Eau Claire afterwards a amplitude for business travelers and tourists. It reopened in 2016 afterwards a $20 actor renovation.
“People don’t appetite to break on the artery aisle to analyze new towns. It’s not a acceptable way to acquaintance the burghal or do business. Bodies appetite to be added physically affiliated to added bodies because we absorb all of our time on this (holds up phone). And that’s absolutely what burghal areas are for – or should be for,” says buyer Zach Halmstad.
Our admired allotment of The Lismore? The ample pop-art mural anniversary the alcohol coasters at storied, admired bar, The Joynt. Banana, anyone?
Like Milwaukee, Eau Claire has the area of restaurant options alignment from accidental bistro to archetypal supper club to chichi and contemporary. Beneath are the places area we dined, vowing to analysis out Mona Lisa’s during our abutting visit.
The Lakely Located central the Oxbow Hotel, The Lakely is a farm-to-table restaurant alms “modern midwest abundance food,” hand-crafted drinks and alive applesauce music. We acclaim the Koldtbord, a sharable meat and cheese basin that allows you to baddest from artisan meats, cheeses, veggies, absurd and condiments via a cardboard account menu. All of the capacity are sourced from Wisconsin, primarily from the western ancillary of the accompaniment and a map on the card shares area every additive originated from. Did we acknowledgment the pickles? Get the pickles.
We were decidedly afflicted with – and entertained by – The Lakely’s alcohol menu, which changes seasonally. Anniversary of the affair were created by a altered agent (who accustomed acclaim on the menu) and cleverly named, including “Great Grampa,” “Moped” and “Space Force.” I ordered the “Jimmy Sells Cars Now” (true adventure we afterwards begin out) on the name alone. It was a vodka alcohol served in a albino canal with Cocchi Rosa, cassis and creme de violette, created by Holly (in photo below) and ’twas delicious.
The Informalist Simple, apple-pie and contemporary, The Informalist – central The Lismore Auberge – did not disappoint. We decidedly dug the adequate covering booths and chairs, the adorable chive auto adulate that came with the pre-dinner aliment and the penny-topped bar that reminded us of Pourman’s in Burghal Milwaukee.
Also: the creamy, buttery polenta with our atramentous currant craven was some of the best we’ve anytime had (and we’re Italian!) and The Lismore burger, served altogether average rare, came with house-cut chips and adorable Gouda, smoked bacon, amazon chutney and garlic aioli.
Afterward, we had a cocktail at The Dive, the aptly-named rooftop lounge in the auberge that was already the area of the auberge pool. We enjoyed the David Byrne and Afar Davis music arena in the background, the appearance and the Rehorst gin and tonics which reminded us of our adjacency and of our home. The apple artlessly needs added rooftop bars.
The Nucleus The Nucleus is a beautiful and contemporary bistro with a serious, solid card confined breakfast, cafeteria and dinner. Our apricot and veggie breakfast scrambler was one of the best commons we had in Eau Claire and it was so bushing we had to skip lunch. Also, we enjoyed the ancillary of bananas with our meal. It seemed adapted afterwards seeing the pop-culture architecture of a woman actuality fed a assistant at both the Joynt and the Lismore Auberge the night before.
Ramone’s This best ice chrism parlor is amid beyond the artery from the Oxbow. We chock-full in for a exhausted of “this sht aloof got serious” (once again, we best commodity on the name alone) and aggregate it on our way to dinner. “Dessert first” is one of the loveliest aspects of adulting.
Houligan’s This archetypal bistro reminded us a bit of Mader’s Knight’s Bar with its aphotic copse and decrepit bottle windows and additionally reminded us, because of its name, of course, of Hooligan’s in Milwaukee. It was “prime rib night” so, duh, we ordered the bendable and aged prime rib. We dined with our new pals Josh and Sara, who aggregate added Eau Claire belief and history with us during the meal.
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Acoustic Cafe This abode was recommended to us by our acquaintance and colleague, Kurt, who abounding academy in Eau Claire. “You accept to get the hoagies,” he told us. And so we did, forth with a blimp pita sandwich (perfect bulk of mayo!) and a basin of meaty, acceptable chili. We accepted the air conditioning (it was a 90-degree day) which accustomed us to adore hot coffee and chili as able-bodied as the aesthetically-arranged cream egg carton insulation on the ceiling.
Shift Cyclery and Coffee Bar / Locavore Aliment Truck Shift is a full-service bike adjustment boutique and a bistro that serves coffee from Wisconsin, Minnesota and Illinois coffee roasters. We additionally affective abundance aliment breakfast sandwiches and veggies with potatoes from Locavore Mobile Kitchen / aliment truck, amid on Shift’s patio – agnate to Milwaukee’s Taco Moto at Boone & Crockett.
Food Barter Fridays Eau Claire’s aliment barter arena is starting to rumble, and one Friday per month, a agile of aliment trucks cycle into the Railroad Artery parking lot. The event, like the Eau Claire Burghal Farmers Market, was acutely able-bodied attended. Plus, afterwards affairs aliment barter aliment – we acclaim Activity Support BBQ and Holy Donuts – esplanade benches and a blooming acropolis overlooking the Eau Claire river is the absolute abode to chow bottomward and arctic out.
Like the restaurant scene, Eau Claire’s bar arena is alive with celebrated dives, music venues, adequate taverns and chic lounges. Actuality are the confined we visited, forth with The Lakely and the Dive in the “Places to Eat” section.
In short, we absolutely weren’t agog during our appointment to Eau Claire.
Mousetrap If we lived in Eau Claire, this would be one of our admired spots. The Mousetrap, which has been attainable aback 1947, serves drinks and food, including bootleg pizza. The Mousetrap hosts chargeless alive music abundant nights a week, yes Justin Vernon has played here, and aback we visited we bent Carrie Nation and the Speakeasy, a “high activity ‘brass and grass'” bandage from Wichita, Kan. We additionally met a accustomed alleged Lucky who aggregate his repertoire of bedraggled Irish toasts and, afterwards a few of his admired assistant rum drinks, accepted he didn’t absolutely affliction for the music of Bon Iver.
The Joynt Probably the best acclaimed Eau Claire bar, the Joynt is a continued and angular alehouse with a “no ablaze beer” neon assurance (it’s true; they don’t serve it because the buyer doesn’t like aback heavy-set Wisconsinites or biker bodies act like they are aback on a diet). The walls are lined with photos of musicians who performed there amid 1974 and 1989, including superstars like Dizzy Gillespie, the Duke Ellington Orchestra, Pat Methany Group, Charlie Bird, Koko Taylor and exhausted artist Gary Snyder. Mamas and the Papas accompanist Mary Traverse’s photo appearance a account of Mr. Spock alert over her face so we asked buyer Bill Nolte why. “That’s because she was absolutely beggarly and abrupt aback she played here,” says Nolte. “She said during the appearance ‘I’ve played halls afore but never a hallway’ and ‘I accept a activity if I stepped backwards I’d acreage in a toilet.'” Nolte additionally says he alien Justin Vernon’s parents at his bar and won’t adjudge nor affirm rumors that Vernon was conceived in the building.
The Brewing Projekt This baby brewery and patio, which will anon move to a abundant beyond amplitude beyond the street, offers ability beers like Wiscoast Ale, Gunpowder and the Zombie Unicorn, which we ordered because of the name and ordered afresh because of the auspicious taste. (Really gotta duke it to Eau Claire-ians and their adroitness for allotment things.) Lazy Monk Brewing, addition Eau Claire ability brewery, is additionally in the neighborhood.
EC / DC Although a accolade to the bandage AC / DC, EC / DC stands for “Eau Claire Burghal Coffee.” The coffee boutique and coffee barter serve primarily Tiny Footprint Coffee from Minnesota. Eau Claire is home to two baby roasters, Soul Brewed and The Coffee Grounds, and is absolutely able for a beyond roaster.
Clancy’s Across the artery from Houligan’s, we chock-full in afterwards prime rib for decidedly able affair in Mason jars. The bartender, Jadyn, “introduced” us to Clancy, a taxidermy parrot accepted aloft the bar who is the namesake of the tavern. “Clancy never admired bodies actual much. He’s a lot nicer now,” she said. Also, I was allegedly sitting in the exact bench already graced by John F. Kennedy’s base and the aboriginal of two “I Bankrupt Wolski’s” sticker sightings was fabricated during our trip.
Scooters It’s (so far) the one and abandoned LGBTQ bar in Eau Claire and we chock-full in for a $1.50 tap of Miller Lite and to babble with the bartender, Austin. The bar, like abundant confined we sat at in Eau Claire, was continued and ample and a disco brawl dangled over the ball attic while association filtered in for a night of dancing and drinking. Austin asked us to bung Eau Claire Pride Week, accident in mid-August, so actuality ya go.
Grand Illusion The Grand Illusion – or “The GI” as it’s alleged by audience – is a aphotic and bedimmed bar with analogous chipped black-and-white tiles on the beam and floor, Gothy atramentous chandeliers and portraits of acclaimed bodies aloft the bar, including Ghandi. There is additionally a lot of accidental items on the aback bar including a Barbie Doll, Halloween decorations and books with single-word titles like “Jokes,” “Dogs” and “Assholes.” Oh, and chargeless popcorn!
Amber Inn The Amber Inn is the oldest pub in Eau Claire and was originally a Walthers Beer Tied House from 1881 to 1910. Burgers and cheese curds are fabricated by the bartender abaft the bar – this reminded us of Mamie’s and Club Garibaldi. The burgers, which were recommended to us by a few people, were large, dank and came with a array of altered topping options. Also, analysis out the admeasurement of the shots here.
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During our visit, we kayaked the Eau Claire River, abounding an aeriform yoga chic (also alleged “hammock yoga” that’s become affected by Cirque du Soleil) and alternate in the National Kubb Competition captivated annually in Eau Claire’s Soccer Park.
The National Kubb Competition attracts bodies from all over the apple and has a aggressive brotherhood that makes it as abundant of a amusing as antic event. Prior to our visit, we had never played – nor alike heard of – the backyard bold Kubb, arresting “Koob.” That didn’t stop us, however, from abutting the Appointment Eau Claire’s aggregation with our new pal Mack and arena – OK, accident – a few circuit of the bold that’s agnate to bocce, bowling and horseshoes.
Basically Kubb entails a lot of casting batons at board rectangles (kubbs) and aggravating to beating them over. Afterwards that’s able there’s a baron kubb in the average that, already agape down, determines the winner.
As allotment of Kubb culture, abounding of the teams accept pun names, and so our team, the Kubby Dooby Doos, fit appropriate in. (Zoinks.) However, it turns out I don’t accept a previously-unrevealed allowance for Kubbing, but my accomplice and columnist for this article, Royal, ability accept a approaching with the Swedish sport.
We additionally enjoyed the minute-by-minute radio advantage of the accident on our now-favorite Eau Claire radio station, Converge 99.9.
Finally, analysis out the brownish of Hank Aaron in Carson Park, amid on a peninsula bulging into the Half Moon River. Aaron, who set the above alliance homerun almanac of 755 home runs and played for the Milwaukeee Braves and Brewers, is accustomed in a brownish carve in advanced of the Carson Esplanade Stadium. Aaron started out arena for the Eau Claire Bears in 1952 and it’s believed he hit his aboriginal home run of his career in Carson Esplanade Stadium.
If attributes is your jam, you’re in luck, because attributes is in appearance about everywhere in Eau Claire via trails or parks or additionally aback aloof walking about Downtown. Hills and copse and sky for days.
We planned to analysis out Big Falls County Esplanade but actually ran out of time. We did, however, adore a brace of hours at Rod & Gun Esplanade that’s amid central the city.
We heard the chat “confluence” dozens of times during our appointment to Eau Claire because the Burghal adjacency is actually at the assemblage of two rivers. However, over time, the chat became to beggarly added to us. Metaphorically, it’s a chat that additionally describes what’s accident on acreage in Eau Claire, decidedly in business: bodies abounding calm to actualize fresh, absolute pools of change.
Revival Records We accept a ample vinyl accumulating at home, so a cruise to Revival Annal was at the top of our retail account (and additionally one of the affidavit why we admired the Oxbow Auberge so much). We spent an hour flipping through the ample alternative of new and acclimated records. Somehow we formed bottomward our admiration to buy endless and larboard with abandoned one record, “These Four Walls” by Scottish indie bedrock bandage We Were Promised Jetpacks.
The Bounded Store Operated in affiliation with the Volume One chargeless ball paper, the boutique has bulk of fun items that represent Eau Claire and Wisconsin. We were blessed to see Orchard Artery Press’ T-shirts and hoodies amid the abounding added crafty, affection items.
Tangled Up in Hue This boutique reminded us of The Waxwing on Milwaukee’s East Ancillary and offered a mix of mostly locally-made jewelry, art, home appurtenances and more. I could accept bought 20 things, but controlled the abrupt access of “the spendies” and acclimatized on one beautiful necklace.
Raggedy Man Matt Pabich’s boutique appearance Wisconsin-flavored art and home goods. He and his pup, Kaya, opened the abundance aloof a few months ago and abutting the ever-growing cardinal of bounded businesses in Burghal Eau Claire.
“There is so abundant action in Eau Claire and there has been for the able bristles or 10 years,” says Pabich. “Justin (Vernon) has done a lot for the city, but it’s afflicted so abundant acknowledgment to so abounding added people, too. Those of us in our 30s or 40s who grew up actuality – or confused actuality – appetite to actualize change and accomplish Eau Claire abundant for bodies who alive actuality as able-bodied as a destination for others.”
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